A Town Like Kaikoura
We have always loved some of the incredible places in our backyard here in Canterbury. This month we rediscover the charms of Kaikoura.
Getting there
Whatever the weather Kaikoura has plenty to offer - from adrenalin seeking to just plain relaxing. We were on the road early to avoid a scheduled road closure just south of Kaikoura. According to the NZTA website until mid-August you needed to be prepared for a possible 35 minute stop if you arrive after 9am Mon- Fri. The trip from Rangiora, on a perfect day, minus any road works is just over 2 hrs so it’s an easy overnight escape.
Day one
We called in to Peketa Motor Camp just south of Kaikoura. I have caravanned here since the late 1980s and it hasn’t lost its charm. The facilities are always clean and well maintained, there’s easy beach access and you can spend your days chilling out with a book or entertain yourself people watching.
Peketa Beach Holiday Park 7km South of Kaikoura, New Zealand. beachfront@kaikourapeketabeach.co.nz
Next stop - coffee! The day should always start with a good coffee in a scenic spot. For us it was at the historic Boutique Hotel’s pop-up café along the esplanade. The hotel itself is an elegantly refurbished 1880’s building with fantastic sea and mountain views. If you want to stay then it’s ‘adults only’ accommodation. There’s a champagne bar and plenty of seating in the leafy courtyard. Perfect for a romantic getaway.
But we were here for the caffeine! The barista made coffee was excellent and we can highly recommend the carrot cake and lemon shortcake. So good we went back for a repeat order the next day.
What we do best - shopping/lunching/wineries
We know what it’s like to recover from a devastating earthquake but Kaikourarians have had that and Covid to deal with. So, it was exciting to see the progress the retail community have made despite these challenges. There are some cool new stores and some firm favourites that have re-established or moved locations.
Bean me up Café is a quirky spot for a coffee in the sun or relax inside the 1970’s alcove. The Slam Club, recommended to us by locals, has fantastic fresh salads and delicious sandwiches.
As for shops we spent a lot of time at Addy & Lou where you’ll find absolutely gorgeous homewares, furniture, bags, jewellery, baby wear and plenty more. There’s also recently opened Husk Home selling stylish homewares; Abbey Road Clothing and Surf who have relocated to the old Four Square building and have a seriously impressive clothing range; Novel Findings (halfway up Beach Road) is super cute with a warm fire and fabulous collection of new and preloved books, clothing and an eclectic homewares.
Kaikoura Cheeses produce great artisan cheeses – but they close at 3pm so get there early in the day.
To end the day head to the Kaikoura winery which combines stylish cuisine and local wines with stunning sea and mountains views. We loved the dramatic driveway to the top of the hill and enjoying a glass of perfectly chilled Greystone, barrel fermented 2018 vintage sauvignon blanc – at sunset. Husband and wife team Rob and Rosie Cullen have established a unique dining experience – a must next time you are in Kaikoura. And if you’ve got a special event coming up the winery is also available for private celebrations.
Our accommodation
We stayed at Wacky Stays Accommodation and Farm Park where there are plenty of glamping options including a colonial wagon, a tepee or a house bus. We were allocated the train carriage - the last of the tiny houses bought for use as accommodation here.
It was really comfortable with a double bedroom, a cute-as bunk room with two beds and a bathroom with shower, loo and dinky little hand basin. The open plan living area incorporated a well-equipped, a self-catering kitchen. We had a great night, playing old movies, reading train books and cooking a Hello Fresh food meal that we had brought with us- and a wine or two.
Next morning I fed the llamas and other farm yard animals whilst Mandy was whipping up breakfast - fresh eggs, cereal, toast and plunger coffee that were provided. The farm park is available to guests and there is an added option to go Llama trekking which would be serious fun.
If you prefer something more mainstream there are plenty of choices. Enjoy the warmth, humour and hospitality that is on offer at Donegal House with their 27 guest rooms. Wander about the beautiful gardens or catch up with your host, Murray in the homely Irish Bar. I lost Mandy for an hour or two doing just that! There is also a new Motor Home and caravan park available. www.donegalhouse.co.nz
A little closer to the action try the Anchor Inn - superbly located on the waterfront and close to the town centre. Most of the rooms have a view of the sea and mountains
And for bigger budgets check out Glencree Estate. Originally a high country sheep and beef station it now offers luxury accommodation nestled between the Southern Alps and the Kaikoura coastline. Sheer cliffs, natural waterfalls, native flora and fauna, native birds, wild animals, guided walks, mountain bike riding, champagne lunches - what more do you need?
Wacky Stays Train Carriage History
The carriage was built in Addington, Christchurch NZ in May 1888 and decommissioned from in November 1940. It sold in March 1941 for $10. It first was incorporated into a home in Pines Beach until the building was destroyed by the Sept 2010 earthquake. The carriage was largely undamaged and the owners of Wacky Stays bought it on TradeMe. It took some three years to refurbish it to what you see today.
Accommodation and Llama Trekking bookings can be made directly at www.wackystays.co.nz